Sabor – London, UK

We recently visited Sabor, just off London’s Regent Street. We knew it was going to be good before we even stepped foot into its distinctly Spanish interior, not because of the restaurant reviews (although they have been incredible) rather the knowledge that Nieves Barragán is at the helm. For those who don’t know, Nieves was the head chef at London’s well-known Spanish eatery, Barrafina. She helped them gain a coveted Michelin Star no less, before heading out on her own last year in collaboration with another Barrafina alumnus, José Etura, to produce Sabor.

The lowdown

Sabor is two restaurants in one: upstairs, El Asador – expect whole suckling pig cooked to perfection and exquisite octopus; and downstairs you’ll find The Counter – think traditional-style tapas restaurant. Nieves told us, “We wanted to make it a tour of Spain, the tascas of Andalucía, to the recipes I grew up with in my homeland (the Basque Country).”

The experience

This very much feels like a family-run restaurant with the easy, jovial banter between chefs and waiters flying over the counter and through the open kitchen. We like it. It actually reminds us of being at a tasca in Spain, unlike so many other “Spanish” restaurants in London. The specials are reeled off from memory from the amiable waiter. At least three of the six or so dishes are a no brainer off the cuff – the puntillas de calamar are crispy and delicious.

The dish

While we couldn’t fault any of the dishes, the ox tail (rabo de toro) was the standout. Cooked in red wine before being rolled in almonds and hazelnuts, seared, and then served back in a reduction of its own juices and red wine, it’s all kinds of dreaminess on a plate with deep, rich flavours, effortlessly paired with an equally bolshy and confident glass of vino tinto.

The detail

We loved the fact that our order was written on the marble counter top in front of us in glass pens. Oh, and anywhere that has vermouth on tap is our friend.

The verdict

While the wine might be a tad pricey, this is one we’ll keep coming back to for its super-friendly ways and easy-going nature, plus the knock-out food, obviously.